ControlOMatic’s current saltwater systems all include over current shutdown to protect the power supply and the titanium plates. The purpose is to protect the power supply and ensure the life span of the titanium plates is at least 7000 hours. The salt level should be between 1500 and 2000 PPM and the only corrective action is to lower the salt level.
If you have GREEN and RED LEDs at the same time – Test the water
Easy First Test
Take the electrode out of the water and turn it on so it starts making chlorine, if the lights still turn green/red then there is a problem and it isn’t the water.
Second Test – The Water – Skip if the easy first test failed
Fill a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 with spa water and 1/3 with fresh water
Turn the unit off and leave in the bucket for 5 minutes to adjust to the temperature
Turn it on and see if the lights are blue when making chlorine, if they are then remove 1/3 of the spa water and replace with fresh water. If not try again but fill the bucket ½ with spa water and ½ with fresh water and try again.
If Diluting the water makes no difference then:
There is a slight chance it is the power supply, if you have a voltmeter measure the DC voltage and it should be around 5.5. If it is higher, like 8 then that would cause the problem and the supply is bad.
ChlorMaker Additional Test:
The problem is either the circuit board or the electrode. Open the control box and disconnect one of the two wires to the electrode so the electrode is now disconnected. Turn the unit on and when it starts making chlorine if the problem goes away then it is the electrode, if the problem doesn’t go away it is the circuit.
If after performing these tests, if the led’s remain red and green then there may be a short in your saltwater system so please contact us.