© 2011 ControlOMatic, Inc. Grass Valley, California, USA


The ColorChlor and TechniChlor have no moving parts, no buttons and no knobs. To operate you will need to gently tap on the white rubber cap where the cable is. Please follow this procedure to verify tapping is working. The tap location works best at the following spots:
To change or view the power level requires at least one double tap. The most important thing to remember with the double tap is two taps very close together, like a mouse double click.
During startup (even with clear fresh new water) the hot tub or spa water usually has a high organic material content and phosphates leading to a high chlorine demand. Once the spa is balanced the chlorine demand should be lowered so the chlorinator can now make enough chlorine to be measured. Click for more information.
If the a green LED while making chlorine means the salt level is high, if blue while making chlorine then the salt level is in range, and if red while making chlorine then the salt level is low. You should always measure the salt level before adding salt and never let it go above 2200 PPM.
As time goes on you notice that the ColorChlor or TechniChlor spa chlorine generators are not making as much chlorine as when new and you are having to increase the power levels. This may also be more noticeable if when you installed your spa chlorinator you started with fresh water. What is likely happening is a buildup of organic material and phosphates in the hot tub water which has increased the chlorine demand of your spa.
If the water temperature is cold remove the ColorChlor from the water and keep in a safe place until you will use the spa again. Chlorine generators do not operate efficiently or at all at low temperatures.

The ChlorMaker operates on a 3 hour cycle and when it is making chlorine the green generating led will be on, and when in the off part of the 3 hour cycle it will be off. The green check cell can be on as follows.
Generating led off and check cell blinking. The power to the plates has exceeded 2.6 amps and the ChlorMaker has shut off (not making chlorine). The salt is way too high and the system turned off to protect the power supply. Lower the salt level. The ChlorMaker will try to turn on again at the end of the 3 hour cycle.