Pool and Spa Energy Management

There  are a few ways pool and spa owners can save money on energy of which
two are turning the circulation pump off when the pool or spa isn’t
being used (or at least lowering the speed) and lowering the
temperature of the water when the pool or spa isn’t being used.

Lowering the temperature during the keep out hours can easily save as much as
$200 per month or more. To do this you need a temperature controller
that is set up for the days of the week type of control with the
ability to set the time to lower the temperature at night and the
time to set it back in the morning. It will need to be set back at
least an hour before the opening hour to make sure the temperature is
back to normal. A side benefit of lowering the temperature at night
is that will reduce  usage of the pool or spa  during during those
hours. Imagine sneaking into a spa late at night long after it is
closed only to find the water is 90°F instead of 104°F.

Most commercial pools and spas keep the circulation pump running 24 hours
per day. Most of these pumps are oversized and turn over the water
more than needed but that is the way it is. A variable speed pump can
save a lot of money as you can lower the speed to get the desired
turnover rate which could be every 6 hours. A better approach is to
let the pump run at full speed when the pool or spa is open, and then
lower the speed when it is closed. To do this right would require the
ability to be able to set the open and closed times for each day of
the week.

There are controllers for heaters and even some heaters have it built in
the ability to have two temperature setpoints to realize the savings
in lowering the temperature during the pool or spa closed hours. The
same also goes for the variable speed pumps.

The PoolWarden is a water chemistry controller, meaning that it measures
pH and ORP and controls relays that can feed corrective chemicals to
keep the water chemistry in balance. The PoolWarden also has energy
management built in allowing for control of up to three of any
combination of heaters and variable speed pumps. There are two time
profiles (supporting if you have a pool and spa with different
operating hours) that include a morning time and evening time for
each day of the week. When the time is between these two times the
heater or pump will be running normal, when not between these two
times the heater will be at a lower temperature  and the pump will be
at a lower speed.

A PoolWarden that controls two pools including sensors and flow cells
goes for about $2000. If you save $200 per month lowering the
temperature of the heaters at night that would pay for adding water
chemistry control in a short 10 months, not even counting what can be
saved by using the right amount of chlorine and acid/base. The
PoolWarden also tracks relay on time, you can actually see the hours
that the equipment is in the lower energy usage mode and easily
calculate the savings.

By Scott Lenney

ControlOMatic

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MHPower Power Supply has been dropped

As many of you are aware the 110/220 power supply that we have been using for almost a year has been dropped. We will be documenting the problems that we have had with them in the near future. To date of the 500 power supplies we purchased from TDCPower that were made by MHPower about 10% have failed at 30% load, 110 VAC and 80 degrees outside temperature. It turns out that our dealers cut off the 110 VAC plug to wire the power supply into a 110 VAC circuit (which is a very standard thing to do), according to MHPower that damaged the power supply, I am sure you agree what a stupid thing for MHPower to say. We also have failed units with the 110 plug still on which MHPower indicates the temperature was too high causing them to fail, which makes you wonder if you can run their power supply at 20% load in the winter – just doesn’t make sense unless you are not fessing up to your responsability. We have sense switched to a power supply by Mean Well with 0 failures to date.

We purchased our power cables for all of our chlorine generators from TDCpower, www.tdcpower.com. Many of our dealers ask why does the red wire in the power cable go to ground and the black wire go to +5 which is opposite what it should be and has created many problems for us including destroying a few production units before we caught the problem. The nice folks over at TDCPower offered to fix the 1700 cables (about 700 pounds) if we paid to have them shipped back to China, to us that is a joke of which dealing with TDCPower has beome many jokes. Of the last order of 1700 cables that were wired wrong, 7 were wired correct (can you believe that). So, we had to actually test each one and TDCPower was not willing to compensate us in any way for this extra work. For the mistake of the wire color swap they offered 150 cables which we agreed to even though that will not even come close to covering our costs for dealing with this mess. It has been over 5 months and no cables yet.

— Will be adding more soon on our dealings with TDCPower and MHPower.

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Solar Panel Spa Chlorine Generator

We have been asked why we don’t make a
solar powered chlorinator and there are some very good reasons which
may not be obvious as it sounds like a good idea.

1. Energy savings: about $12 per year,
that is all it takes for a spa chlorine generator to provide around
the clock protection for your spa. They use about 8 watts when making
chlorine and a watt when in standby mode.

2. Solar chlorinators do not make
chlorine at night. In the winter the chlorine will be at the highest
from 1 to 2PM and in the summer from 2 to 6. If you use the spa more
than an hour out of this range either way there will be no chlorine.
A spa with the water over 100f will consume the chlorine within an
hour so it needs to be continuously added.

3. Tracking: A solar chlorinator will
not have a sun tracking panel and will make the most chlorine for a
very short time. A spa consumes chlorine and if not regularly shocked
and phosphates removed the solar chlorinator will most likely not be
able to ever make enough chlorine to be measured.

4. Weather: On cloudy days there will
be no chlorine made. On multiple cloudy days the lack of chlorine
may lead to terrible water quality and smell.

The bottom line is there are many
conditions where you will need to manually add chlorine to be safe.
There is a couple hour window at the hottest time of the day where
the water may be safe when using a solar chlorinator, but that will
most likely be the time you definitely don’t want to use the spa.

If the solar chlorinator has copper and
silver ions that isn’t a replacement for the sanitizer and the above
still holds.

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Specialty Salts

When using special mineral enriched salts the simple 1.5 pounds per 100 gallons of water doesn’t quite hold to achieve 2000 ppm. The following table is for 100 gallons.

Salt Type Pounds Cups 400 Gallon Spa lbs:cups
Dead Sea Salt 2.5 5.0 10:20
Himalayan Salt 1.8 2.9 7.2:11.6
Morton Pool Salt 1.4 2.3 5.6:9.2

This data was taken by simply adding 1.2 oz of each salt to 5 gallons of water and measuring the salt level using an electronic measurement and the AquaCheck NACL test strip and taking the average (they were close in all cases).  For a salt chlorine generator to work properly the right amount of NACL is required. Morton pool salt is just NACL, where Dead Sea Salt and Himalayan Salt have minerals and other compounds. To achieve the correct salt level for the ColorChlor, TechniChlor and MiniChlor to work properly add the appropriate salt per the table.

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Ecolab Aqua Balance Pool and Spa Program

Having helped develop the remotely monitored Aqua Balance Pool and Spa Program that Ecolab offers to hospitality customers, I can rightfully say that I know a little about it. First, I’ll say that offering automated ORP/pH control systems to the world over the last 20 years has been a good thing as it has brought the awareness of this technology to the forefront of this industry. This has had a huge impact on making pools and spas much safer to swim in.

It is a known fact that ORP/pH controllers can be very effective in not only producing excellent water quality and efficiency, they also are very effective at preventing the spread of waterborne bacteria and viruses. I believe that Ecolab with their Aqua Balance Pool and Spa Program has done more than any other company to promote this technology and therefore providing much safer aquatic facilities to the public.

This technology has been around since the mid 1970′s but was very expensive, little known and typically found only in larger pools and aquatic complexes. Even by the 1990′s, the vast majority of people in the pool and spa business wanted nothing to do with this technology even though it benefits the operator as well as the swimmer. Now that people are much more aware of ORP/pH controllers and the swimming pool industry has been forced to adopt this technology or risk becoming obsolete, it has helped the industry take a big step forward.

Now back to the Ecolab Aqua Balance Pool and Spa Program. This program is still a viable way for facilities to obtain this technology at a low up front cost but is not the most economical means over time. Until recently, ORP/pH controllers have been out of reach for some owners but now thanks to ControlOMatic, the cost of high quality, automated chemical controllers has become economically feasible with a very quick return on investment for any facility. ControlOMatic can also provide installation, training and support for any facility looking to become self sufficient and save a substantial amount of money on their swimming pool and spa operation. We have over 20 years of experience in chemical automation including design, manufacturing, installation and service.

by Lance Fitzsimmons

Notes from ControlOMatic. Lance worked for Service First Pools and Spas in 1993 and on and was the first customer for Acu-Trol. After installing quite a few AK1000′s for Service First Lance was hired by EcoLab to work the Los Angeles area to help develop the pool and spa market. Lance was able to introduce to EcoLab the technology that Acu-Trol had with multi-pool control systems with data monitoring.

For more information on the PoolWarden multi-pool controller please visit www.poolwarden.com

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Can a Chlorine Generator be used indoors

Chlorine and bromine generators use the electrolysis process which makes gasses that will rise to the surface and into the air. This will change the makeup of the are which may not be healthy to breathe. To put a chlorine generator indoors will require continuous ventilation, otherwise avoid using any chlorine generation system indoors.

The ColorChlor, TechniChlor and MiniChlor makes chlorine or bromine in spas which usually have a cover. When lifting the cover stand back for a minute to allow the gasses trapped between the cover and the water to disperse. If you leave these spa chlorine generators on when using the spa make sure to tap them or lift them out of the water so they will stop making chlorine while using the spa or hot tub.

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What is ORP and how can it be used on Swimming Pools

Operating a swimming pool or spa, without an automated controller is like operating your home heating and cooling system without a thermostat. Who would constantly turn their furnace on and off manually? The majority of swimming pool and spa operators control chemistry in exactly this manner. Water balance continually changes between too much and too little as operators attempt to maintain chemical balance Consequently, unsafe water conditions, chloramine formation, and organic loading are inevitable which leads to cloudy water eye irritation and foul “chlorine smell”.

ORP stands for Oxidation-Reduction Potential and in some places it is called Redox. In practical terms, it is a measurement on how effectively chlorine or bromine can oxidize contaminants, kill algae and kill bacteria & viruses.

Why is ORP so important in a swimming pool or spa? The answer to that is that right now, ORP is the only practical method we have to electronically monitor sanitizer effectiveness. The better you can understand ORP, the better you will be able to manage a pool or spa.

In the real world, manual chemical maintenance of pool and spa water is labor intensive and almost impossible to do effectively. You must maintain sanitizer residual at a level sufficient to protect swimmers and bathers from the invasion of unwanted – and possibly harmful – plant and animal life. You must maintain the pH of the water at a level that assures the sanitizer works effectively and at the same time protects the pool shell and equipment from corrosion or scaling and the bathers from discomfort or irritation. Not only that, but in most places, there is a health department that will occasionally check water quality and if not within published parameters, will close a swimming pool or spa.

You must also make sure that all the other levels – total alkalinity, water hardness, temperature, and total dissolved solids (TDS), to name four big ones – are also in balance or not out of the recommended range.

The two most important components of water balance are sanitizer residual and pH. By far, these are the chemical tests performed most often as these are things that we are most concerned with.

ORP and and pH sensors allow us to electronically monitor and control sanitizer residual and pH automatically. In a light usage residential pool, this might not be a primary concern. However, in a public swimming pool or spa some form of dependable, accurate, automatic chemical control may well be a necessity.

“But,” you might say, “I am controlling the chemistry. I’ve got an erosion feeder hooked up or a pump with a timer adding chlorine from a bleach tank.

The key words are “dependable” and “accurate.” The methods described above may get some sanitizer in the water, but will it be enough or will it be too much?

An erosion feeder, hooked in-line with the circulation system, will dispense some chemicals whenever the system is running – whether they are needed or not. A pump hooked up to a timer will dispense some chemicals constantly – whether they are needed or not. Depending on this method to accurately treat your water is a little like playing Russian Roulette – chancy at best and downright fatal at worst.

Besides, erosion feeders and feed pumps only deal with sanitizer residual. There’s still nothing there to control pH. pH, as we all know, is the thing that makes chlorine work.

If you want true chemical control, you’ve got to have some method of monitoring both the sanitizer residual and the pH and using that information to chemically treat the water. That’s where ORP comes into play.

Chemicals like chlorine, bromine, and ozone are all oxidizers. It is their ability to oxidize that makes them good water sanitizers, because in altering the chemical makeup of unwanted plants and animals, they kill them. Then they “burn up” the remains to be filtered out.

Of course, in the process of oxidizing, all of these oxidizers are reduced – so they lose their ability to further oxidize things. They may combine with other substances in the water, or their electrical charge may simply be “used up.” To make sure that the chemical process continues to the very end, you must have a high enough concentration of oxidizer in the water to do the whole job.

But how much is “enough?” That’s where the term potential comes into play.

“Potential” is a word that refers to ability rather than action. Potential energy is energy that is stored and ready to be put to work. It’s not actually working, but we know that the energy is there if and when we need it.

In electrical terms, potential energy is measured in volts. Actual energy (current flow) is measured in amps. When you put a voltmeter across the leads of a battery, the reading you get is the difference in electrical pressure – the potential – between the two poles.

When we use the term potential in describing ORP, we are actually talking about electrical potential or voltage. We are reading the very tiny voltage generated when a metal is placed in water in the presence of oxidizing and reducing agents. These voltages give us an indication of the ability of the oxidizers in the water to effectively “kill” contaminants.

How is ORP Measured?

An ORP controller and probe is a millivolt meter, measuring the voltage across a circuit formed by a reference electrode constructed of silver wire (in effect, the negative pole of the circuit), and a measuring electrode constructed of a platinum or gold band (the positive pole), with the pool water in between.

The reference electrode, usually made of silver, is surrounded by salt (electrolyte) solution that produces another tiny voltage. But the voltage produced by the reference electrode is constant and stable, so it forms a reference against which the voltage generated by the platinum measuring electrode and the oxidizers in the water may be compared. These electrodes are housed in a single plastic body. The meter circuitry itself must have very high impedance (resistance) in order to measure the very tiny voltages generated by the circuit.

What Does an ORP Controller Tell US?

For practical purposes, oxidizing agents are the “good guys” in the water sanitation picture, reducing agents are contaminants or the “bad guys.”

If we had a body of water in which the concentration of oxidizers exactly equaled the concentration of reducers, then the amount of potential generated at the measuring electrode would be exactly zero. As you might guess, the water would be in pretty sad shape, because if any additional contaminants were introduced into the water, there would be no oxidizer to take care of it.

As we add oxidizer to the water, it “takes” electrons from the surface of the platinum measuring electrode. To make things a little more confusing, we need to point out that electrons are negatively charged particles. When we remove these negatively charged things from this electrode, the electrode becomes more and more positively charged. As we continue to add oxidizer to the water, the electrode generates a higher and higher positive voltage. An ORP controller will tell us how effectively the water is being sanitized. ORP is a qualitative, not a quantitative measurement. Quality not quantity.

How pH Affects ORP

Professionals are already well aware that sanitizer effectiveness can vary rather significantly with changes in pH – particularly in regards to chlorine, which is by far the most commonly used sanitizer for swimming pools and spas.

The killing form of chlorine is hypochlorous acid or HOCI, which, is a powerful oxidizer. The percentage of chlorine available as hypochlorous acid present in pool and spa water depends directly on the pH.

For example, at a pH of 6.0, 96.5 percent of the Free Available Chlorine in the water is in the form of HOCI, while at a pH of 8.5, only 10 percent is iavailable as hypochlorous acid.

A DPD test can tell you how much of the chlorine is combined and how much is free and available, but it cannot tell you what percentage is in the form of hypochlorous acid. To determine this, you must take a pH test and calculate the results. The pH or the water sample will not effect the results of a DPD test.

Although ORP does not specifically tell you the chlorine concentration in parts per million, it does indicate the effectiveness of the chlorine as an oxidizer. An ORP reading will vary as pH fluctuates. As the pH goes up, the millivolt reading on an ORP meter will go down, indicating that amount of HOCL available in the water is lessened. Bringing the pH down or adding more sanitizer will increase the millivolt reading.

To give people the full picture, most ORP controllers also incorporate an electronic pH meter – which measures the difference in electrical potential between the pool water and a sample of known pH that is contained in the probe in a small glass bulb.

How much is enough?

The instruments for measuring ORP were developed in the 1960′s, which enabled researchers to work toward setting standards under which ORP measurements could be used as an accurate gauge of water quality.

In 1972, the World Health Organization adopted an ORP standard for drinking water disinfection of 650 millivolts which means the sanitizer in the water is active enough to destroy harmful organisms almost instantaneously. In Germany, which has about the strictest water quality standards in the world, an ORP level of 750 millivolts has been established as the minimum standard for public swimming pools and spas.

In its 1988 standards for commercial pools and spas, the National Spa & Pool Institute stated that ORP can be used as a “supplemental measurement of proper sanitizer activity” when chlorine or bromine are used as primary disinfectants. The recommended minimum reading under the NSPI standards is 650 millivolts, with no ideal and no maximum.

Most health codes still specify that a measurable free available chlorine (FAC) residual – usually 1.0 ppm present in the water of public pools and spas, as measured with a DPD test kit.

Swimming Pool and Spa Chemical Automation

ORP technology has received widespread application in this country as the basis of automated chemical control equipment. The reasoning is clear: Only an ORP sensor can deliver the kind of feedback needed to control feeders for sanitizer and pH adjusting chemicals.

Unlike erosion feeders or timer controlled devices, ORP based chemical controllers can dispense pool chemicals as they are needed, which not only provides for optimal sanitation but also conserves chemicals and prolongs equipment and surface life. Combined with a pH sensor, these controllers can be used to activate liquid feed pumps, or erosion type feeders for dry chemicals. They also can monitor pool water chemistry and store the data.

This type of chemical automation can result in significant savings for operators of commercial pool and spa installations because chemicals are only dispensed when they are needed. Just like a thermostat saves enegery with heating and cooling.

Further, electronic control assures that sanitizer and pH adjusting chemicals will be dispensed precisely as they are needed, eliminating the “roller coaster” effect in sanitizer residual and pH that often occur in pools and spas as bather load fluctuates.

When used with liquid chemical feed pumps, the readings from the pH and ORP probes determine when the controller activates chemical pumps. The pumps are turned on and off to achieve the desired levels.

Erosion feeders (dispensing trichlor, calcium hypochlorite tablets or bromine tablets can also be controlled by an ORP controller. The feeder is placed in a bypass line, which is opened or closed through the use of a solenoid valve.

ORP devices can also be used to measure sanitizer effectiveness and control chlorine generators.

In my 26 years of experience, chemical automation has been the only way to achieve optimal water quality and economy. Swimming pools and spas utilizing this technology are much more enjoyable to swim in and easier to maintain.

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Spa Chlorine Generator Startup

When preparing the water for a saltwater chlorine generator the water is usually replaced to start with fresh water and then salt is added. For a salt concentration of 2000 PPM that is about 1.5 pounds per 100 gallons of water. Then the water should be balanced which entails at a minimum bringing the pH to 7.5 and the chlorine to 2 PPM.

If the water isn’t balanced with chlorine then a typical problem is the chlorine generator can’t break from a 0 chlorine reading even after a couple days. This type of problem typically only happens at start-up because the fresh water typically has more organic material content and can be high in phosphates leading to a higher chlorine demand than a hot tub chlorine generator can produce. Once the organic material is removed and the phosphates are lowered the chlorine demand of the hot tub water will be reduced and the chlorinator can now make chlorine faster than the spa is consuming it.

Even the salt contributes to the chlorine demand as the salt will most likely have a powdery coating on it unless it was rinsed first. The water should be balanced after the salt has dissolved to also remove any organic material introduced by the salt.

When the water is replaced and after the salt has been added the water should be shocked and a suitable phosphate remover used. If the hot tub chlorine generator will not be on for a couple days then a chlorine based shock should be used. If the chlorinator will be used during start-up a chlorine free shock can be used. When adding phosphate remover simply add a cap-full and if the water gets a white tint to it like a white fog there are phosphate so then add the recommended amount of phosphate remover per the directions on the bottle. After the filter has cleared up the water repeat the process until the water doesn’t turn white when adding the phosphate remover.

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ColorChlor/TechniChlor Power Level Times

The ColorChlor and TechniChlor hot tub and spa chlorine generators have 10 power levels that set the amount of on time in a 6 hour cycle. When in the off part of the 6 hour cycle (standby mode) the lights will flash green every 10 seconds.

On Times:
Power Level 1: 2 minutes
Power Level 2: 15 minutes
Power Level 3: 30 minutes
Power Level 4: 1 hour
Power Level 5: 1.5 hours
Power Level 6: 2 hours
Power Level 7: 3 hours
Power Level 8: 4 hours
Power Level 9: 5 hours
Power Level 10: 6 hours – always on

To find the current power level double tap the unit and count the blue flashes. When the spa chlorinator is turned on or tapped it will be on in boost mode, meaning it will be on for 3 times the normal on time for one full day. At power level 5 it will be on 4.5 hours out of every 6.

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ColorChlor vs. Chlormaker or Drape Over vs Inline

You have decided to get a chlorine generator for your spa to help make your spa easier to take care of and for the benefits of soft water. Now, which spa chlorine generator to you get.

Basic Types

Convection: This type usually has the chlorinator cell in the main body of water with the low voltage power cord draped over the side.
Inline: This type is plumbed into the existing spa plumbing and requires flow through the cell to work

Comparison

Both types have the advantages and disadvantages. It is up to the personal preference of the spa owner as to which are more important so here is a list of the pluses and minuses of each.

Convection Spa Chlorine Generator: Drape over the side:

  • Power cord drapes over the side and is visible. Not suitable for commercial applications
  • Chlorine producing cell is visible in the spa
  • Can be installed in minutes if there is a suitable outlet near the spa
  • Does not require the spa to be on to operate, can make chlorine 24 hours a day if needed
  • Does not require any modifications to the spa

Inline Spa Chlorine Generator: Installed in the existing spa plumbing

  • Requires spa circulation to operate. Damage can occur if chlorine is produced in the cell without water flow
  • To achieve a consistent level of chlorine from day to day, the flow through the cell must be the same every day
  • Can be a challenge to install, You need to deal with the plumbing, flow, and where to plug it in
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