MiniChlor and TechniChlor, How to DECIDE

We get asked all the time what the difference is between our MiniChlor and TechniChlor spa saltwater systems. The MiniChlor is more like other chlorine generators on the market and lacks the advanced features of temperature compensation and boost mode.
MiniChlor: Our most economical saltwater system and is the model that is most like our competition.

  • List price $219
  • 6 Power Levels
  • Makes 15 grams of Chlorine per day (Spas to 600 gallons)
  • Operates on a 3 hour cycle for consistant chlorine production and water safety
  • Recommend to shock the water after each use, does not have a chlorine boost mode
  • Salt level indicator
  • If you lower the water temperature you will most likely need to adjust the power level.

ColorChlor and TechniChlor: Adds the following features which are also not included with any other saltwater system

  • List price TechniChlor ($279) and ColorChlor ($309)
  • 10 Power Levels
  • Makes 32 grams of Chlorine per day (Spas to 1000 gallons)
  • Operates on a 3 hour cycle for consistant chlorine production and water safety
  • Recommend to shock the water every 2 weeks or after using the spa 10 times.
  • Boost mode, after using the spa will go into a mode where it makes more shlorine for up to 18 hours to replentish the chlorine used.
  • Temperature compensation allows the chlorinator to make less chlorine as the water temperature drops. If you go on vacation and lower the temperature you will not need to also lower the power level on the chlorinator.
  • Salt level indicator
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Solar Panel Spa Chlorine Generator

We have been asked why we don’t make a
solar powered chlorinator and there are some very good reasons which
may not be obvious as it sounds like a good idea.

1. Energy savings: about $12 per year,
that is all it takes for a spa chlorine generator to provide around
the clock protection for your spa. They use about 8 watts when making
chlorine and a watt when in standby mode.

2. Solar chlorinators do not make
chlorine at night. In the winter the chlorine will be at the highest
from 1 to 2PM and in the summer from 2 to 6. If you use the spa more
than an hour out of this range either way there will be no chlorine.
A spa with the water over 100f will consume the chlorine within an
hour so it needs to be continuously added.

3. Tracking: A solar chlorinator will
not have a sun tracking panel and will make the most chlorine for a
very short time. A spa consumes chlorine and if not regularly shocked
and phosphates removed the solar chlorinator will most likely not be
able to ever make enough chlorine to be measured.

4. Weather: On cloudy days there will
be no chlorine made. On multiple cloudy days the lack of chlorine
may lead to terrible water quality and smell.

The bottom line is there are many
conditions where you will need to manually add chlorine to be safe.
There is a couple hour window at the hottest time of the day where
the water may be safe when using a solar chlorinator, but that will
most likely be the time you definitely don’t want to use the spa.

If the solar chlorinator has copper and
silver ions that isn’t a replacement for the sanitizer and the above
still holds.

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Spa Equipment and Corrision, is SALT OK or not

Pool and Spa equipment and metal corrosion problems are usually caused by water balance issues. Water is known as the universal solvent and under the right conditions will slowly dissolve just about anything. If the pH,alkalinity and/or hardness are low, your heater and any other metal parts will be slowly destroyed. Spas using chlorine or bromine tablets experience heater corrosion for this very reason, because the pH and alkalinity drop to an unacceptably low level which causes the water to be “corrosive”. Chlorine generators will not cause the pH and alkalinity to drop to low levels but if the hardness levels are too low, the water will dissolve metals or whatever it can to achieve correct saturation. Everyone knows the effect of putting a penny in a glass of soda and how it will dissolve the penny. This is due to the water being corrosive because of the low pH and alkalinity caused by the carbon dioxide which creates carbonic acid and this happens rather quickly. Try putting a penny in a container of distilled water for 2 or 3 months. You will notice the penny slowly dissolve because the water is trying to saturate itself with minerals.

Most chlorine generators these days operate on salt levels of 2-3,000 ppm which is considered fresh water. Not enough to cause corrosion like sea water which is about 35,000 ppm of salt. Many pools and spas treated with liquid chlorine have salt levels higher than that especially in drought years in California when draining a pool is highly discouraged. Occasionally, one of these pools would experience galvanic corrosion due to the water being more conductive from the higher salt concentration and low level electrical currents in the water caused by improper grounding of nearby power supplies. The pool would become the ground for these stray currents and cause corrosion. You can read about galvanic corrosion here. All of the major equipment manufacturers make chlorine generators and most of them work on a 2-3,000 ppm salt concentration. If the salt was the cause of equipment damage, the manufacturers would discontinue the products due to warranty expense. Both Hot Springs and Arctic Spas offer chlorine generators as an option on their new tubs for over a year now.

If you want to use a chlorine generator the best thing to do is make sure your water has enough hardness and you have proper grounding of your equipment. If you are unsure about any of this there are sacrificial anodes you can get installed on your system.

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Specialty Salts

When using special mineral enriched salts the simple 1.5 pounds per 100 gallons of water doesn’t quite hold to achieve 2000 ppm. The following table is for 100 gallons.

Salt Type Pounds Cups 400 Gallon Spa lbs:cups
Dead Sea Salt 2.5 5.0 10:20
Himalayan Salt 1.8 2.9 7.2:11.6
Morton Pool Salt 1.4 2.3 5.6:9.2

This data was taken by simply adding 1.2 oz of each salt to 5 gallons of water and measuring the salt level using an electronic measurement and the AquaCheck NACL test strip and taking the average (they were close in all cases).  For a salt chlorine generator to work properly the right amount of NACL is required. Morton pool salt is just NACL, where Dead Sea Salt and Himalayan Salt have minerals and other compounds. To achieve the correct salt level for the ColorChlor, TechniChlor and MiniChlor to work properly add the appropriate salt per the table.

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Can a Chlorine Generator be used indoors

Chlorine and bromine generators use the electrolysis process which makes gasses that will rise to the surface and into the air. This will change the makeup of the are which may not be healthy to breathe. To put a chlorine generator indoors will require continuous ventilation, otherwise avoid using any chlorine generation system indoors.

The ColorChlor, TechniChlor and MiniChlor makes chlorine or bromine in spas which usually have a cover. When lifting the cover stand back for a minute to allow the gasses trapped between the cover and the water to disperse. If you leave these spa chlorine generators on when using the spa make sure to tap them or lift them out of the water so they will stop making chlorine while using the spa or hot tub.

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Spa Chlorine Generator Startup

When preparing the water for a saltwater chlorine generator the water is usually replaced to start with fresh water and then salt is added. For a salt concentration of 2000 PPM that is about 1.5 pounds per 100 gallons of water. Then the water should be balanced which entails at a minimum bringing the pH to 7.5 and the chlorine to 2 PPM.

If the water isn’t balanced with chlorine then a typical problem is the chlorine generator can’t break from a 0 chlorine reading even after a couple days. This type of problem typically only happens at start-up because the fresh water typically has more organic material content and can be high in phosphates leading to a higher chlorine demand than a hot tub chlorine generator can produce. Once the organic material is removed and the phosphates are lowered the chlorine demand of the hot tub water will be reduced and the chlorinator can now make chlorine faster than the spa is consuming it.

Even the salt contributes to the chlorine demand as the salt will most likely have a powdery coating on it unless it was rinsed first. The water should be balanced after the salt has dissolved to also remove any organic material introduced by the salt.

When the water is replaced and after the salt has been added the water should be shocked and a suitable phosphate remover used. If the hot tub chlorine generator will not be on for a couple days then a chlorine based shock should be used. If the chlorinator will be used during start-up a chlorine free shock can be used. When adding phosphate remover simply add a cap-full and if the water gets a white tint to it like a white fog there are phosphate so then add the recommended amount of phosphate remover per the directions on the bottle. After the filter has cleared up the water repeat the process until the water doesn’t turn white when adding the phosphate remover.

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ColorChlor vs. Chlormaker or Drape Over vs Inline

You have decided to get a chlorine generator for your spa to help make your spa easier to take care of and for the benefits of soft water. Now, which spa chlorine generator to you get.

Basic Types

Convection: This type usually has the chlorinator cell in the main body of water with the low voltage power cord draped over the side.
Inline: This type is plumbed into the existing spa plumbing and requires flow through the cell to work

Comparison

Both types have the advantages and disadvantages. It is up to the personal preference of the spa owner as to which are more important so here is a list of the pluses and minuses of each.

Convection Spa Chlorine Generator: Drape over the side:

  • Power cord drapes over the side and is visible. Not suitable for commercial applications
  • Chlorine producing cell is visible in the spa
  • Can be installed in minutes if there is a suitable outlet near the spa
  • Does not require the spa to be on to operate, can make chlorine 24 hours a day if needed
  • Does not require any modifications to the spa

Inline Spa Chlorine Generator: Installed in the existing spa plumbing

  • Requires spa circulation to operate. Damage can occur if chlorine is produced in the cell without water flow
  • To achieve a consistent level of chlorine from day to day, the flow through the cell must be the same every day
  • Can be a challenge to install, You need to deal with the plumbing, flow, and where to plug it in
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Chlorine Generators and Super Chlorination

When using an electronic saltwater chlorine generator you hope to buy and use fewer chemicals and enjoy reduced maintenance. You may still need to periodically shock the water and you should measure the chemical balance prior to use if it is a spa and at least once a week if a pool. Over time the chlorine demand of the water will go up as more and more organic material enter the water. A point may be reached where the chlorine demand for the water is the same or exceeds the chlorine output from your electronic chlorinator. You will notice that when the chlorine is low it takes longer over time for it to bring the chlorine levels back up. You may also have to increase the power level to make more chlorine as the water is consuming more chlorine than your chlorine generator can make at the lower power level. This is more likely to happen in a Spa that is used often and if you have a spa chlorine generator. A Spa chlorinator is designed to make much less chlorine than a pool chlorinator as you do not want to over-chlorinate your spa which could lead to corrosion.

Pool or spa shocking is the addition of a sufficient dose of chlorine: calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo), liquid chlorine, sodium dichlor or non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate or MPS). The purpose of a shock treatment is to break-down organic waste contaminants which cause odor, cloudy water, and a decrease in the efficiency of chlorine generators. After treatment, water quality and clarity are often completely restored and you may be able to lower the power level of the saltwater chlorine generator.

When a spa is used every day there can be a quick buildup of organic material, and the water may look just fine and not smell, but the spa chlorine generator is having a harder time keeping up as the days go buy. If you increase the power level of the spa chlorinator that will also decrease the life span of the chlorinator as it will be on longer each day. Shocking the spa is a better alternative and you have to decide on a chlorine or chlorine-free shock.

  • If you don’t want to add chlorine, then the chlorine-free shock is the way to go. Just follow the directions on the container.
  • If you don’t mind adding chlorine the spa chlorine generator will not mind. This will shock the spa water, and give it some chlorine which is less chlorine that the electronic chlorinator has to make. We recommend using a chlorine shock that doesn’t have stabilizer.
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Can I Use Sodium Bromide

If you don’t want to use chlorine in your spa then you can use sodium bromide salt just fine with the ColorChlor, TechniChlor and MiniChlor to make bromine instead. Sodium Bromide is more expensive than sodium chloride and you can get it in liquid or powder form. You will need about 3000 PPM so start with about 2 pounds per 100 gallons.

If you use NACL – sodium chloride with a chlorine generator you will get chlorine as the sanitizer.

If you use NABR – sodium bromide with a chlorine generator you will get bromine as the sanitizer.

There are a few bromine generators for hot tubs and spas out there. Do not use them with regular salt (NACL), they can only make bromine.

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Alternative Sanitizers

Chlorine Generators: These devices contain titanium plates with a special coating and generate chlorine from salt that was added to the pool water. After the chlorine is used it reverts back to salt to be reused. This device is really not an ‘alternative’ system, as free available chlorine (FAC) is produced and reacts the same as adding chlorine from a purchased bucket without the added byproducts that come with packaged chlorine and are dissolved in the water.

 Ionizers: These are usually copper and or silver electrodes which introduce soluble copper and or silver ions to the pool when an electric current is passed through the unit. Copper is used for algae control and silver for bacteria control. While once touted as “chlorine-free” systems, they are now mainly sold as devices to be used with low levels of chlorine. These ‘heavy metal’ devices (so-named because of the high density of elemental metals) are sold in the pool industry as ‘alternative’ sanitizers.

 They have several shortcomings, however. First, in Canada, silver is not allowed as a sanitizer and is not even allowed to be listed in any accompanying literature. Second, silver is relatively slow in its ability to sanitize. Third, although copper is an extremely effective algaecide, it has the propensity to precipitate and discolour pool surfaces with a tenacious stain. Finally, these devices are not oxidizers, so 90% of the workload of chlorine is not fulfilled.

 Magnets: Using magnets as water conditioners, mainly for pH and scale control, is possibly a scam. Aggressive marketing and threats of legal action often silence the opponents of magnetic devices. These devices are also sold as a way to increase gas mileage when attached to the gas tank and as a way to increase blood circulation when attached to the body by adhesive tape.

 Oxygen generators: These devices pass current between two electrodes resulting in the electrolysis of water creating two volumes of hydrogen at the cathode and one volume of oxygen at the anode. The word “nascent” oxygen is often used to give them a scientific flair. The sanitation properties of oxygen are flaunted. This weakly soluble oxygen has little – if any – ability to kill bacteria or oxidize organics and the failure of such systems was once the topic on the TV show ‘Hard Copy’.

 Ozone Generators: These create 03 by passing air through either Corona Discharge (CD) or Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation. Ozone – an extremely powerful oxidizing agent – is so unstable that is must be generated at the point of entry into the pool. Due to its activity and low solubility, it does not leave a required residual past 22 minutes in the water and must be used with chlorine or bromine. It is not a stand-alone system. Allowing ozone to accumulate in enclosed areas can also compromise the health of the individual.

 UV Devices: It is known that bacteria are killed when subjected to certain wave lengths of ultraviolet light. You may have seen surgical instruments sterilized under UV light. Having UV irradiate water passing through a transparent pipe in the return line may kill the bacteria in the pipe, but it has no effect on sanitizing the remaining water in the pool. UV leaves no residual and no ability to oxidize. Trojan Technologies of London, Ontario, which sells UV generators, dismisses the use of UV technology for use in pools.

Oxidative Catalysts: These devices use a cartridge attached to the return line which contains metallic copper and finely divided elemental silver. There are no electrical components. The copper and silver dissolve by erosion or corrosion. Finely divided silver is known to be an oxidative catalyst in the synthesis of certain hydrocarbons. These devices claim that they can control algae and can assist chlorine in killing bacteria. This device is incompatible with bromine sanitizers. It has no ability to oxidize. While little staining occurs with copper, it is often difficult to measure any copper residual in the water. Some critics of this device say it is a form of homeopathy, a branch of medicine, which dilutes the drug to a point where it cannot be detected and yet claims medicinal results. Claims for silver efficacy are not allowed in Canada.

Summary of Sanitizers
Name Description Sanitizer Residual Fast kill Oxidizer Algaecide
Chlorine Generators Chlorine generation from salt Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Chlorine Tablets Chlorine Tablets Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Bromine Bromine Tablets with 27% chlorine added to activate bromine Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Ionizers Copper/silver Ion generation Weak Yes No No Yes
Magnets Permanent Magnets No No No No No
NOGS Nascent Oxygen Generators No No No No No
Ozone Generators Produce Ozone Yes No Yes Yes Yes
UV Devices Ultraviolet Disinfection Yes No Yes No Unknown
Vision Unit Oxidative Catalysts No CU Only No No Dissolved CU
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